The Modern Bicycle.

The Modern Bicycle by Charles Spencer (1876).

~ The Modern Bicycle – Charles Spencer (1876).

Cycling in England & Scotland.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

This updated version of famous ex-champion London gymnast Charles Spencer’s pioneering book from 1869, β€œcontaining instructions for beginners; choice of a machine; hints on training; road book for England, Wales, &c, &c,” was part of β€œWarne’s Useful Books, for the Country or the Fireside” series.

Containing a comprehensive list of 245 routes with their mileage, under the section β€œThe Bicycle Road Guide”, it also features an 18 page chapter providing β€œthe detailed account of the trip from London to John o’ Groats, the longest on record which has ever been undertaken,” in June 1873, by four members of the Middlesex Bicycle Club on their Thomas Sparrow machines; Mr. Charles Spencer (48 inch wheel), Mr. W. Wood (52 inch), Mr. George Hunt and Mr. Charles Leaver (both on 46″ wheeled machines)

Attracting a crowd of thousands at their departure, extensive daily updates of “the boldest project in bicycling yet attempted” appeared in newspapers throughout Britain during the fifteen days it took them to cover the estimated 800 miles (β€œa very moderate estimate when the winding of the roads is taken into consideration, to say nothing of the continual ascents”); the Dundee Courier correctly doubting that not all of the starting party would achieve such a distance, writing “Of course it is not likely that they will all accomplish the entire journey, many only start for the sake of good fellowship, and for the purpose of seeing what distance they can run.”

Leaving London for Scotland on the Great North Road, we follow the famous route closely, passing through the historic towns and old coach staging points covered by the four Middlesex cyclists – many of which still offer glimpses of how they might have looked back in 1873.

Although Spencer helpfully gave great detail of the many places visited, “as it is intended in a great measure as a guide to those intending to travel the same roads,” we have opted for the adjacent (but much longer) quieter roads and cycle paths, where available, to avoid what are now very busy A-roads, dual carriageways and motorways, choosing the same hotels, where possible, or others which remain from 1873.

Indeed, the route became the very first designated A-road in 1921, the A1, with parts widened even further in more recent times to become the A1(M) motorway, with many of the towns, villages and farmsteads from 1873 either disappearing completely or now inaccessible to cyclists.

28 years after this ground-breaking ride, The Great North Road was also covered by Charles G. Harper in his two 1901 cycling volumes, “The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland”, which became the inspiration behind BBC journalist Steve Silk’s 2021 book, “The Great North Road: London to Edinburgh – 11 Days, 2 Wheels and 1 Ancient Highway.”

While it is possible to split many of the rides over more than one day, or even combine two day’s efforts, we have stuck to the schedule covered by the Middlesex cyclists in 1873, which was more focused on record breaking than sightseeing. For that reason, we would certainly recommend allowing an extra day or two to enjoy many of the attractions and sights along the route, including Edinburgh and the Beamish Living Museum of the North, near Chester-le-Street, for example; this incredible open air museum offers a great insight into what life would have been like, back in the day, for those early cycling pioneers and even includes a historic bicycle collection.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 1.

0 km ~ King’s Arms Hotel, Kensington, London.
4 km ~ Knightsbridge, London.
9 km ~ Camden Town, London.
11 km ~ Kentish Town, London.
13 km ~ Highgate Archway, London.
16 km ~ East Finchley.
22 km ~ Whetstone.
25 km ~ Barnet.
29 km ~ 🍺 The Duke of York, Potter’s Bar.
35 km ~ Bell Bar.
43 km ~ (🏰 Hatfield House & Gardens).
44 km ~ St Etheldreda’s Church, Old Hatfield.
48 km ~ Stanborough.
50 km ~ Lemsford.
55 km ~ 🍺 The Wellington Inn, Welwyn.
59 km ~ Woolmer Green.
66 km ~ Stevenage.
70 km ~ Graveley.
79 km ~ 🍴 The Old White Horse, Baldock.
100 km ~ Biggleswade.
107 km ~ Beeston.
116 km ~ Tempsford.
122 km ~ Wyboston.
121 km ~ Eaton Socon.
127 km ~ Crosshall (Easton Ford).
130 km ~ Little Paxton.
141 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The George Hotel, or Lion Hotel, Buckden.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 2.

0 km ~ The George Hotel, or Lion Hotel, Buckden.
17 km ~ Alconbury.
38 km ~ Stilton.
41 km ~ Norman Cross.
59 km ~ Wansford.
68 km ~ 🍺 The George Hotel, Stamford.
95 km ~ South Whitham.
100 km ~ Colsterworth.
118 km ~ Grantham.
137 km ~ Marston.
148 km ~ Long Bennington.
160 km ~ 🍴 The Queen’s Head, Newark-on-Trent.
161 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Beaumond Cross Hotel, Newark-on-Trent.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 3.

0 km ~ The Queen’s Head, Newark-on-Trent.
4 km ~ South Muskham.
6 km ~ North Muskham.
14 km ~ Cromwell.
18 km ~ Sutton-on-Trent.
24 km ~ Scarthingmoor House (was Scarthing Moor Inn).
30 km ~ Tuxford.
36 km ~ Markham Moor.
42 km ~ Retford.
54 km ~ Torworth.
58 km ~ Scrooby.
60 km ~ Bawtry.
69 km ~ Rossington.
77 km ~ Doncaster Racecourse.
79 km ~ 🍴 63 Hall Gate, Doncaster (site of the Reindeer Inn, demolished in 1962, now a fast food takeaway).
102 km ~ 🍺 The Blue Bell Inn, Wentbridge (the only remaining coaching house in the village after The Bay Horse Inn became a private residence, pre-1899).
103 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Wentbridge House, Wentbridge.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 4.

0 km ~ Wentbridge House, Wentbridge.
3 km ~ Darrington.
9 km ~ Ferrybridge.
11 km ~ Brotherton.
14 km ~ Fairburn.
22 km ~ Micklefield.
26 km ~ 🍴 The Arabian Horse, Aberford. (The remaining coaching house after the Swan Hotel, which dated back to 1650, was converted into two private homes, Swan House and Cygnet House, next to the church on Main Street North, in 2015).
32 km ~ Bramham.
39 km ~ 30 High Street, Wetherby, (site of Angel Hotel, which became an Italian restaurant in 2009 and closed in 2022).
40 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The Swan & Talbot Inn, Wetherby.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 5.

0 km ~ The Swan & Talbot Inn, Wetherby.
28 km ~ 🍴 The Crown Hotel, Boroughbridge.
78 km ~ 🍴 The Farmers Arms, Catterick Bridge. (The Bridge House Hotel, a coaching house since the 16th century, was destroyed by fire in 2014 and remains derelict).
99 km ~ 🍴 Trevelyan Hotel, Darlington (now the Imperial Centre, with Manjaros Restaurant, Grange Road/Coniscliffe Road).
99 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Mecure King’s Hotel, Darlington (coaching house dating back to 1649, although current building built in 1893).

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 6.

0 km ~ Imperial Centre, Grange Road/Coniscliffe Road, Darlington (formerly The Trevelyan Hotel).
8 km ~ Coatham Mundeville.
11 km ~ Aycliffe Village.
29 km ~ Sunderland Bridge.
36 km ~ 🍴 The Half Moon Inn, Durham.
37 km ~ Durham Cathedral.
42 km ~ Durham Moor.
50 km ~ Chester-le-Street.
(🏰 + 7 km possible excursion – each way – to Beamish open air museum, devoted to life in the 1820s and early 1900s. A full day visit is recommended with accommodation available nearby, including πŸ›οΈ Beamish Hall Hotel).
57 km ~ Angel of the North, near Eighton Banks.
65 km ~ High Level Bridge, Newcastle.
66 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Grey Street Hotel, Newcastle.
66 km ~ 🍴 The Muddler, 69-73 Grey Street, Newcastle (site of former Turks Head Hotel).

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 7.

0 km ~ 71 Grey Street, Newcastle (former Turks Head Hotel).
5 km ~ Gosforth.
12 km ~Six Mile House, 12 Front Street, Seaton Burn (now an Indian restaurant).
26 km ~ Clifton.
29 km ~ Morpeth.
40 km ~ Shield Green.
53 km ~ Felton.
56 km ~ Nelson Memorial, Swarland.
68 km ~ πŸ›οΈ White Swan Hotel (not “White Lion”), Alnwick.
68 km ~ 🏰 Alnwick Castle.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 8.

0 km ~ White Swan Hotel, Alnwick.
25 km ~ Warenford.
36 km ~ 🍴 Blue Bell Hotel, Belford.
40 km ~ Detchant.
44 km ~ Fenwick.
52 km ~ New Haggerston.
65 km ~ Tweedmouth.
66 km ~ The Old Bridge (on footpath), Berwick-upon-Tweed. (This was the only crossing in 1873 with the adjacent “New Bridge” opening in 1928).
67 km ~ 🍺 The Red Lion, Berwick-upon-Tweed.
82 km ~ Ayton.
105 km ~ Cocksburnpath.
119 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The Castle Hotel, Dunbar.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 9.

0 km ~ The Castle Hotel, Dunbar.
4 km ~ Beltonford.
18 km ~ Haddington.
41 km ~ Musselburgh.
45 km ~ Portobello.
51 km ~ 🍺 Cafe Royal, Edinburgh.
πŸ›οΈ The historic Cafe Royal no longer offers rooms, however The Baxter Hostel Princess Street, next to it, is located above what was The Guildford Arms Hotel in 1873 (the beautiful pub from 1893 on the ground floor remains to this day), while, opposite, Motel One Edinburgh Princess Street may be in a building which didn’t appear until 1920 however it neighbours the Hotel Indigo, known (until 2016) as The Royal British Hotel in 1873. Nearby, Travelodge Edinburgh Central Waterloo Place was the Darling’s Regent temperance hotel in 1873, while Apex Waterloo Hotel, next to it, opened in the former premises of the city’s first large purpose built hotel, which traded from 1819 to 1898. For those with very deep pockets, there are many 5 star hotels surrounding Cafe Royal too.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 10.

0 km ~ Cafe Royal, Edinburgh.
5 km ~ Granton Harbour (Ferries to Burntisland stopped in 1993).
23 km ~ South Queensferry.
(β›΅ Boat tour possible from Forth Boat Tours or Maid of the Forth ~ min 1Β½ hours)
26 km ~ Forth Road Bridge (opened in 1964 replacing ferry service).
44 km ~ Burntisland Harbour.
75 km ~ Kilnross.
101 km ~ 🍺 Salutation Hotel, Perth.
129 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Birnam Hotel (“Pople’s Hotel”), Birnam.
~ πŸšΆπŸ»β€β™‚οΈReturn Walk/Cycle to Birnam Oak ~ 30 mins.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 11.

0 km ~ Birnam Hotel, Birnam.
1 km ~ Dunkeld.
22 km ~ 🍺 Fisher’s Hotel, Pitlochry.
29 km ~ Killiecrankie.
34 km ~ Blair Atholl.
72 km ~ 🍴 “Oatcake and milk”, Dalwhinnie.
94 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Duke of Gordon Hotel, Kingussie.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 12.

0 km ~ Duke of Gordon Hotel, Kingussie.
53 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Moy Inn, Station Road, Moy, is now a private home so we have merged Spencer’s 12th & 13th Day itineraries…

54 km ~ Moy Hall (original mansion was demolished in 1953).
76 km ~ 🍴 The Caledonian Hotel, Inverness, “patronised by the Royal Family, and most of the Nobility of Europe,” was demolished in 1966 to make way for the ugly building which is now the Mecure Hotel, which boasts a brasserie with the same views. As an alternative, the nearby Royal Highland Hotel remains from 1874 and also boasts a restaurant.
82 km ~ Old Ferry Terminal, South Kessock (ferry operated for 500 years until 1982).
87 km ~ Kessock Bridge (opened in 1982).
88 km ~ Old Ferry Terminal, North Kessock.
106 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The National Hotel, Dingwall.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 13.

0 km ~ The National Hotel, Dingwall.
38 km ~ Tain.
42 km ~ 🍴 Meikel Ferry Station, Tain.
45 km ~ Ferry Point, Tain (Ferry operated until 1957).
49 km ~ Dornoch Forth Bridge (opened in 1991).
53 km ~ Meikel Ferry Slipway, Dornoch.
67 km ~ Brim Bellington Beach (Old ferry launch).
84 km ~ Littleferry.
91 km ~ 🍺 Golspie Inn (Sutherland Arms in 1873), Golspie.
92 km ~ 🏰 Dunrobin Castle.
100 km ~ Brora.
118 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The Bridge Hotel (Ross’s Commercial Hotel in 1873), Helmsdale.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 14.

0 km ~ The Bridge Hotel, Helmsdale.
5 km ~ The Ord.
36 km ~ 🍺 The Portand Hotel, Lybster.
65 km ~ 🍴 New Hotel, 2 Bridge Street, Wick, (now a care home).
78 km ~ Keiss.
86 km ~ Freswick.
93 km ~ Huna House, Huna. (now derelict)
97 km ~ John O’Groats.
97 km ~ 🍴 The Cabin Fish n Chips, John O’Groats.
112 km ~ Keiss.
124 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Bank Guest House, Wick.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 15.

πŸš‚ ~ Wick Station opened on 28th July 1874. thirteen months after the Middlesex cyclists left via the steam ship to Aberdeen. Trains take approx 4Β½ hours to Inverness, and a further 2Β½ hours to Aberdeen,
πŸ›οΈ Douglas Hotel, Aberdeen.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 14 & 15 Alternative.

While “the Orkney Islands steamer” no longer stops in Wick on its way to Aberdeen, this final day alternative allows you to sail south on the same 1873 shipping route, by first heading north from Gills Bay, next to John O’Groats, to Orkney, where a late night overnight ferry will take you to Aberdeen. With a choice of sailings, you can split this itinerary to suit your timetable and sunlight hours.

0 km ~ The Bridge Hotel, Helmsdale.
5 km ~ The Ord.
36 km ~ 🍺 The Portand Hotel, Lybster.
65 km ~ 🍴 New Hotel, 2 Bridge Street, Wick, (now a care home).
78 km ~ Keiss.
86 km ~ Freswick.
93 km ~ Huna House, Huna. (now derelict)
97 km ~ John O’Groats.
97 km ~ 🍴 The Cabin Fish n Chips, John O’Groats.
(97 km ~ πŸ›οΈ John O’Groats apartments, John O’Groats).
104 km ~ Gills Bay.
β›΅ Pentland Ferries ~ 1 hour 10 mins sailing to Orkney.

o km ~ St. Margaret’s Hope. Orkney.
(1 km ~ πŸ›οΈ Belle Vue Hotel or The Murray Arms Hotel).
6 km ~ Burray,
29 km ~ Kirkwall.
(30 km ~ πŸ›οΈ The Kirkwall Hotel. Kirkwall, Orkney).
33 km ~ β›΅ Northlink Ferries ~ 7 hour 15 mins sailing to Aberdeen.

Journey from London to John O’Groats.

Day 16.

πŸš‚ ~ Direct trains from Aberdeen to London Kings Cross now take around 7 hours, compared to the 19 hours the Great Northern and North Eastern Railway’s East Coast Route took, back in 1874.

The Aberdeen Steam Navigation Company also sailed between the two cities from 1821 until 1962.

JOURNEY FROM LONDON TO JOHN O’GROATS.

“We had a very grand reception on our arrival at Wick, where we were expected, the whole population apparently turning out to meet us, and making quite an afternoon’s holiday, flags and banners waving on all sides.”

– The Modern Bicycle, by Charles Spencer, 1876.

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